If you're reading this blog primarily for pictures of shrines and temples, and aren't interested in the more mundane elements of keeping a baby alive (i.e., breastfeeding), then feel free to skip this post. We'll get back to shrines and temples tomorrow.
Before coming to Japan, I did a little research on statistics and attitudes regarding breastfeeding here. Coming from Vermont, where breastfeeding in public is at least tolerated (if not expected), we felt a lot of support for our choice to raise J this way. I was concerned, however, about spending so much time in a culture where breastfeeding is slightly less common and where, according to some web information, public breastfeeding is a little less expected. We've spent many frantic moments trying to figure out where to feed an increasingly loud, cranky baby, and it's true that I'm not as comfortable feeding J here in public as I am back home. However, we try not to let this get in the way of travel and tourism, assuming that we'll figure it out as we go. My mother made us a pretty nursing shawl, which has helped.
Another thing that has helped in a major way is the existence of baby "salons," sometimes called baby rooms or nursing rooms. Most department stores, newer tourist sites, airports, some train stations and trains, and even places like baseball stadiums, have private places to nurse babies. These range from small curtained areas (like fitting rooms with comfortable chairs) to major productions which include changing tables, cribs, juice vending machines, sinks, toys, and microwaves. One of our favorites is in the Takashimaya store in downtown Kyoto, which has, among other amenities, "Babysnack"--a snack bar with attendants who sell and heat up organic baby food.
There are more elaborate baby salons in major stores. Hankyu department store at Umeda in Osaka (a large train station we pass through in that region) has a baby room with an actual nurse who will offer nursing rooms, take away dirty diapers (!), answer questions about baby care, weigh and measure your baby, and be otherwise helpful. The baby salon at the Lotte department store in Seoul is even more elaborate. There, mothers (and fathers) can take advantage of a darkened sleeping room (with rows of cribs), as well as a nurse who will help with childcare (I had J weighed and measured at this baby room, which was helpful since he was losing weight due to the stomach bug he had while we were in Korea). My favorite part of this baby salon was the nursing room, which had soft music and relaxing lighting.
I have mixed feelings, as do many nursing mothers (from my Internet research) about baby rooms. Of course, we hope that breastfeeding can be seen as natural and good, and perhaps baby rooms marginalize people who are trying to give their babies the best possible start in life. However, nursing has never been entirely easy for me (or J), and having pleasant, comfortable, secure, and private places to do so has made life here so much better for us. And the other amenities of baby salons (from changing tables to just having a place to rest and relax in stores, train stations, etc.) are quite nice. Baby salons are also a good place to interact with other mothers and fathers, at least to exchange "kawaii-s" (cute, isn't he?) and talk about how old our babies are. I will miss baby salons when we head home.
When we first arrived, we couldn't always find baby rooms. Now, we know the "code." We recognize the kanji for "nursing room," the spoken language for "can I breastfeed here?," the little bottle icons on maps signifying a nursing room, and the fact that most large stores will have such a place in the baby clothes area if you just look around. We're also adept at seeking out baby rooms where they're not evident. Once, not finding an appropriate place to change and nurse in and around a large temple (and with an increasingly hungry and tired baby), we asked at a Koban (police box) where we could change the baby. The two police officers happily invited us in to their large bathroom, brought a chair for "miruku" (milk--nursing), and made small talk in Japanese with S about the weather and baseball while I took care of the baby. They made us feel like we were the most interesting thing that had happened there all day (which may have been true). I've also nursed the baby in the main (air conditioned and nicely appointed) inner office of a major temple, and a back room at a temple in Korea. We've found that people are very helpful and accomodating if we know what to ask.
I enjoy watching the Hanshin Tigers play major league baseball on television (about the only thing we ever watch), and S has offered to take us all to a game in nearby Nishinomiya. I said, sarcastically, "if they have a nursing room at Koshien Stadium, we can go." They do. Three of them.
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