Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Kiyomizudera: heights and tights (spaces)

Kiyomizudera (temple) was high on my list of places to be sure to see while in Kyoto. Since we'd both been there before, we'd put it off, opting instead for places that would be new to us. But, time is ticking away, so we're starting to be sure to make our way through the list.

For a person with phobias (such as myself), Kiyomizudera has it all, from high platforms to small, dark, airless basements.

This famous temple was founded in 798 and is known most for a spring said to have healing powers and its incredible platforms looming high above the valleys below. The largest platform projects out from the main hall and rests on 139 giant pillars. The saying here "leaping from the Kiyomizu platform" means taking a bold step. It was a bold step for me to even walk out on the crowded, slanting platform. I'm waiting for the earthquake, you know.

On that note, I had a severe case of the "what ifs" while experiencing another of Kiyomizu's claims to fame. Just to the left of the main entrance is a small subtemple with an underground walkway said to offer a womb-like rebirth experience. Though it went against my better judgment, all three of us elected to go single file down the stairs and through the curtains into a pitch black maze-like corridor. There were people in front and behind (J, in his carrier, had to try not to crowd me too much) and we really couldn't see a thing. We found our way by hanging onto a large rosary rope. At the center of the "womb" was a large, slightly illuminated stone that we touched for good luck. J really enjoyed this part--he loves touching interesting surfaces. The overall experience was supposed to help us release our attachments to material things (such as light and open spaces, I guess)--the better to reach enlightenment. I'm not sure it worked on me, though I certainly had a strong reminder about being attached. I just about didn't make it through!

The more enjoyable moment of our outing was stopping for green tea flavored shaved ice with adzuki bean paste in an open air tea shop on the temple grounds. Not enlightenment, but a different kind of nirvana.
The front gate of Kiyomizudera.

The entrance to the "womb." J needed a good drink after that experience!Yum: matcha slushy!Kyoto Tower and Kyoto Station (The Cube--to the left of the tower) from the platform.

July 7th is Tanabata, the day the stars Altair and Vega (long lost lovers, according to Chinese legend adopted by Japan) are allowed to cross the great river (the Milky Way) to be together on the seventh day of the seventh month. Kids write their wishes on paper tied to decorated bamboo trees--these can be found at temples and shrines, as well as train stations and supermarkets. Though the picture here is of trees at Kodaiji temple, we wrote our wish at Sanjusangendo temple--peace and love for everyone.

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